An obsession with Virgins

Baños was a fabulous, friendly place to spend Carnaval (now several weeks past). The small town is perched in a flat valley amidst mountains, rivers, and waterfalls. We were welcomed with open arms by Rubì and Julio, who rent out rooms in ther hous to travelers. In addition to joining us for breakfast, Rubí and Julio also acted as our guides and personal dance instructors.

In 1999, the volcano Tungurahua, which looms over Baños, began to erupt. The volcano is still active, spewing rocks, fire, and ash on a daily basis. Baños, though, has never been hit by anything worse than a light dusting of ashes. The people of the town say that Baños was saved by the Virgin of the Holy Water, and truly believe nothing awful will befall their city while they are faithful.

The Virgin of Holy Water is located in the town´s only church. Each year, she is given a new dress, which costs upwards of $1,500. The church itself is decorated with paintings depicting the miracles of the Virgin. For example, the people who didn´t diein a car crash because they cried out to the Virgin, or the woman whose hoome was saved from a fire when she did likewise. In the abbey, hundreds of plaques fill the walls with thanks for the various miracles the Virgin has performed. In addition, a giant statue of the Virgin is perched on the crest of the mountain, and can be visited by a pilgrimage of over 600 steps (which we did). Devoted followers tie their hair on the guard rails around the Virgin´s statue in thanks or prayer.

In fact, there are 12 such great Virgins throughout Ecuador, each of which is the Holy Mother, but each also has her own specialties. And they aren´t just randomly placed either. Quito´s Virgin, the Apocalyptic or Dancing Virgin, stands on a hill jutting out of the otherwise flatish valley. This hill, the Panecillo, was sacred ground for the indigenous people before the Spanish arrived. In addition, statues of the Virgin are strategically placed to protect particularly dangerous roads or areas. In a country populated by mountains, volcanoes, and earthquakes, there are plenty of places that need protection.

There are also numerous small representations of the Virgin Mary as well--in home or neighborhood shrines, and about 10 dangling portraints in every bus. Also, many people wear rosaries like necklaces, which they told us in grade school was blasphemous.

Why the Virgin, and not crosses, or statues of Jesus? According to the people here, it is the mother that cares for and protects the children.